How to Use P-Tex to Fix Your Snowboard and Skis

What Is P-Tex and Why Does Your Base Need It?

P-Tex (short for polyethylene, the same material your ski or snowboard base is made from) is the go-to material for repairing gouges, scratches, and core shots in your base. When you ride over rocks, exposed edges, or debris, the base material gets scraped away — leaving channels that create drag, slow you down, and if left untreated, can allow moisture to reach the wood or foam core underneath.

The good news: most base damage is fixable at home with a P-Tex candle, a metal scraper, and about 20 minutes. You don't need to pay for a shop tune every time you pick up a rock.

What You'll Need

  • P-Tex candle — a stick of base repair material, available in clear (universal) or black
  • A lighter or candle — to ignite the P-Tex
  • A metal scraper — to level the repair once it cools
  • Sandpaper (optional) — 220-grit for finishing
  • A base cleaner or citrus solvent (optional) — to clean the repair area before you start

The Demon Base Repair Kit includes everything you need in one package. The Demon Metal Scraper is also available separately if you need a replacement.

Step 1: Assess the Damage

Not all base damage is the same. Before you reach for the P-Tex, figure out what you're dealing with:

  • Surface scratches: Shallow marks that don't penetrate the full base depth. These affect glide but don't require P-Tex — a good wax job will fill them adequately.
  • Gouges: Deeper cuts that remove base material but don't reach the core. These need P-Tex repair.
  • Core shots: Damage that goes all the way through the base to the wood or foam core. You'll see a different color material (usually white or tan) at the bottom of the gouge. Core shots need P-Tex repair urgently — moisture in the core causes delamination and structural damage.

If the core shot is large (wider than a pencil) or the board is delaminating, take it to a professional shop. Home P-Tex repair works well for small to medium gouges and core shots.

Step 2: Clean the Repair Area

P-Tex bonds best to a clean, dry surface. Use a base cleaner or citrus solvent on a rag to wipe down the damaged area and remove any wax, dirt, or moisture. Let it dry completely before proceeding.

If the gouge has any loose or frayed base material around the edges, carefully trim it away with a sharp knife or scraper so you have clean edges for the repair to bond to.

Step 3: Light the P-Tex Candle

Hold the P-Tex candle at a 45-degree angle and ignite the tip with a lighter. Let it burn for a few seconds until it's producing a steady drip of molten material.

Important: Keep the flame low and blue. If the P-Tex is burning with a black, sooty flame, it's too hot — blow it out and relight. Black carbon from an overheated candle will contaminate the repair and weaken the bond. A clean, low flame produces clear or slightly amber drips, which is what you want.

Step 4: Fill the Gouge

Hold the burning candle directly over the gouge and let the molten P-Tex drip in, filling the damaged area. Work slowly and methodically:

  • Slightly overfill the gouge — you want the repair material to sit proud of the base surface so you have material to scrape back level
  • For long gouges, work from one end to the other in a slow, steady pass
  • For deep gouges or core shots, you may need to do two passes — let the first layer cool before adding a second

Don't rush. Trying to fill a gouge too quickly with a large blob of P-Tex often results in poor adhesion and a repair that pops out after a few runs.

Step 5: Let It Cool Completely

This is the step most people skip — and it's why their repairs fail. P-Tex needs to cool and contract fully before you scrape it. Give it at least 10–15 minutes at room temperature, or longer in a warm environment.

If you scrape while the material is still warm, it will pull away from the edges of the gouge and leave gaps. Be patient.

Step 6: Scrape It Level

Once the repair is fully cool, use a metal scraper held at 90 degrees to the base to scrape the excess P-Tex flush with the surrounding base material. Use firm, even strokes along the length of the board — not across it.

Check your work by running your fingernail across the repair. If you can feel a ridge, keep scraping. The goal is a repair that's perfectly flush with the surrounding base — any high spot will create drag.

For a final finish, you can lightly sand the repair area with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any remaining texture, then wax the board as normal.

Step 7: Wax Over the Repair

P-Tex doesn't hold wax as well as the surrounding base material, so it's important to hot wax the board after any base repair. The wax penetrates the repair and surrounding base, sealing everything and restoring glide.

See our full guide: How to Wax a Snowboard and Skis

Common P-Tex Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

  • Burning the candle too hot: Black soot in the repair weakens adhesion. Keep the flame low and blue.
  • Scraping too soon: Always wait for a full cool before scraping. 10–15 minutes minimum.
  • Underfilling: It's easier to scrape away excess than to add more later. Overfill slightly every time.
  • Skipping the clean step: Wax or dirt under the repair prevents bonding. Always clean first.
  • Using the wrong color: Clear P-Tex works on any base. Black P-Tex is for black bases. Using black on a light base is purely cosmetic — it won't affect performance, but it will be visible.

When to Go to a Shop Instead

Home P-Tex repair is great for small to medium damage, but some situations call for a professional:

  • Core shots wider than a pencil diameter
  • Delamination (base or topsheet separating from the core)
  • Damage near the edges that affects edge integrity
  • Multiple large gouges across the full base width

A shop will use a base extruder or welding tool for larger repairs, which creates a stronger bond than a hand-dripped candle.

Shop Base Repair Supplies at Demon United

Keep your base in shape all season with the right repair tools:

Once your base is repaired, don't forget to tune your edges and wax: